Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and lively culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
